etrailer | Dexter Trailer Axle with Electric Brakes Review

Click for more info and reviews of this Dexter Axle Trailer Axles: https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Axles/Dexter-Axle/7359765-EB.html Check out some similar Trailer Axles options: https://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Trailer_Axles-gw-3500_lbs.aspx https://www.etrailer.com Don’t forget to subscribe! https://www.youtube.com/user/etrailertv Full transcript: https://www.etrailer.com/tv-review-dexter-axle-electric-brakes-e-z-lube-7359765-eb.aspx Today we're going to be taking a look at the Dexter Trailer Axle with electric brake and hub assembly. The kit is going to come with our easy lube axle as well as two electric brake assemblies. You're also going to have the seals, the inner and outer bearings, the castle nut, keeper, grease cap, and the cover on that cap as well. You're also going to have new lug nuts for your hub base. It's also going to come with a tube of Marine-grade grease.So we'll get our two electric brake assemblies. These are going to be 10 by 2 1/4 inch assemblies, so that's going to be measuring from the outside of the brake pads to the other, that's the 10 inch by 2 1/4 going the width. These are going to fit with the hubs that come in your kit, and they're going to work with 13, 14, and 15 inch wheels. Those have the four studs on the back to get this mounted to your axle. And it also comes with the hardware to mount that up.It's going to be a manual adjustment, which you can do down at the bottom there. Those are the two little holes where you can make that manual adjustment to your brake. And it also comes with those covers to put in place, to keep anything from getting in there, whenever it's all assembled.Now one of the main benefits to having an electric brake and drum assembly is how easy it is to install, which we'll go ahead and show you now.Now our first step is going to be to remove the keeper and nut off of the axle as well as the washer. Our kit does come with a spare for both of those, but, just need to pry that off with a flat bladed screwdriver. And then we can just unthread that nut and take the washer off. You'll notice that it has this flat side that will line up with the flat side on our axle as will that keeper.Now we can take our brake and mount that onto those four holes on our axle. And the backside will just thread on those included nuts. And then we can place in our plugs at the bottom, to close up that adjustment point.Our hub is going to work really well with our brakes and our axle. This is designed to work with 10 inch brakes, so again, it's going to have that 10 inch diameter by 2 1/4 inches deep. The weight capacity for this is going to be 1,750 pounds, so it will work well with our 3500 pound brakes and axle.The bolt pattern is going to be five, on four and a half, and this is going to work with wheels that are 13, 14, or 15 inches.We're up to races that are pre-installed on our hub, so this is going to be the smaller one, that our small bearing is going to fit into. It will be the same for our larger bearing on the other side.Now would be the point where you would want to pack your bearings full of grease. It does come with that tube of Marine Grease, to help you get that done.For demonstration purposes, I'm not going to be packing these full of grease, but you just want to make sure that you have grease going all through those rollers, until it's coming out the top and the bottom, and everything is completely lubricated.So this is the larger of our two bearings, it's going to just fit right into the race that's already installed in our hub. As you can see, it fits in really nicely there. And now we can grab our seal, and you want to make sure the beveled side of that is pointing down towards the hub, and you want to make sure that it's nice and level. And then you can tap that into place.Now you can, of course, use a handy block of wood, to get that driven in there. Or you can use a bearing and seal driver, which is what I'm going to actually be using.The trick with this is to make sure that your seal is level and that it goes in evenly, all the way around.Now you just want to drive that down until the seal is flush with the opening on our hub.With the seal and larger bearing installed, we can put this in place on the axle. Now you'll also have your smaller bearing, again, you want to make sure that you have that completely packed full of grease before you have that installed. And that will just slide, with the smaller end facing in.Next you'll do your washer and nut. Now you want to tighten that down and check the tightness on your hub and get that to where it needs to be and then you can replace the keeper on top. Now once you have that process done on one side, you can repeat it on the other side.At the end of our spindle, you'll notice that's the grease cirque, which is where we get the "Easy Lube" name. So now would be the time to go ahead and use the grease that came with our kit to lube everything inside and make sure that it's re

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On this video I will be replacing the bearings, brakes, drums on my texas pride trailer, 7k lbs pound axles. Bought all the parts at nationwide trailers. This had to be done. My axle was in very bad shape. Thanks for watching and SUBSCRIBE subscribe to my other youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/mrfilms FACEBOOK page: https://www.facebook.com/grtruckingdemolition instagram: grtruckingdemolition #replacingbearings #texaspridetrailers #replacingtrailerbrakes

How to Assemble a 3,500 lb Trailer Axle with Electric Brakes - Rockwell American Trailer Axle

How to assemble a 3.5k electric brake axle. Make sure to follow manufacturers specs. See the Operation Service Manual for Rockwell American Trailer Axles. https://www.johnsontrailerparts.com/operation-service-manual-for-rockwell-american-trailer-axles/ Check out link below for more information on trailer axles and installs. https://www.johnsontrailerparts.com/documents-page/ Note: This video is used for guidance only, Always refer to the manufacturers installation instructions and specifications.

FRONT AXLE with Disk Brakes- LEGO Technic (MOC)

Hi guys, this is my idea for pretty advanced front axle. Except authentic steering geometry and others bits and bobs, the most interesting function is brake system. Rear axle can be easy built, using the same system with small changes to make it even more robust. I also invented custem hubs for Porsche's wheels. The biggest advantage of them is that, they are smaller than official ones. This enabled me to design this axle with steering pivot, relatively close to authentic one. I hope you like it and find this concept helpful in your MOCs. Music: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9FQAbqe02xo

Amazon Front Brakes - PowerStop / E-Line / Detroit Axle

In this video I explain why YOU should be buying your brakes off Amazon and NOT the part stores. This video covers specifically PowerStop Brakes, However there are many great brake brands on Amazon like Detroit, E-Line, K-Sport, etc. Please LIKE and SUBSCRIBE if you enjoy the video!

Replacing brakes and bearings on a dexter 5200 pound axle

Step-by-step anyone can do it save yourself over $1000 versus going to the dealership

etrailer | Dexter Electric Trailer Brake Kit Installation

Click for more info and reviews of this Dexter Axle Trailer Brakes: https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Dexter-Axle/23-26.html Check out some similar Trailer Brakes options: https://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Accessories_and_Parts-sf-Trailer_Brakes.aspx Click for more info and reviews of this Dexter Axle Trailer Brakes: https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Brakes/Dexter-Axle/23-26-27.html Check out some similar Trailer Brakes options: https://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Trailer_Brakes-sf-Electric_Drum_Brakes.aspx Click for more info and reviews of this Dexter Axle Trailer Brakes: https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Dexter-Axle/23-27.html Check out some similar Trailer Brakes options: https://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Accessories_and_Parts-sf-Trailer_Brakes.aspx https://www.etrailer.com Don’t forget to subscribe! https://www.youtube.com/user/etrailertv Full transcript: https://www.etrailer.com/tv-install-dexter-trailer-brakes-23-26-27.aspx Speaker 1: Today we'll be taking a look at, and showing you how to install, the 10 inch Dexter Electric Trailer Brakes. They're available for the driver's side and the passenger side, or as a kit with both. They come in weight ratings of 3,000 pounds, 3,500 pounds, or 4,400 pounds. That's going to depend on which axle you have on your trailer.One of our customers, Paul, wrote in, "What is the difference between the 3,500 and 4,400 assembly and how do I know which axle I have on my trailer" Well that's easy, Paul. There should be a tag or information stamped into the axle. You just want to see what you have there, and refer to our site to get the appropriate one. The 3,500 and the 4,400 are the weight ratings.This electric brake assembly is going to be a direct replacement for ones that may be existing on your trailer, or you can upgrade your trailer to add these. The manual inaudible 00:00:47 at the bottom will get a signal from the brake controller on your vehicle. Depending on the sensitivity of the brake controller, that will vary the magnitude of the magnetism on the magnet. The magnet will grab your drum brake, forcing the pads outward, causing the brakes to apply.The brake pads on our assembly are going to be bonded pads. What's nice about this versus riveted pads, is that as your brake pads wear, no rivets can poke through causing any damage to your drum assembly. There is a left and right brake assembly. There's a sticker located on here that will tell you whether it's a left or right hand side. Another way you can help identify if you have the appropriate side is that this is a leading trailing pad set up, so the smaller pad is your leading pad, which goes towards the front, and the trailing is the larger pad, which is located towards the rear.It comes ready to wire, so you just need to hook it up to your old assembly's wiring if you've replaced it. Or if you're running new ones, you'll need to make sure you have one connection to ground and the other one connected to your brake controller signal. It doesn't matter which one's connected to which, either one will work.It'll connect to your axle with a four bolt pattern. The hardware you'll need to connect it to your axles comes included with our assembly. When your tire's on, and the system's fully assembled, you can adjust it through the open slot, here at the back. The kit includes a small cover that can be placed over this, to seal up your assembly, once you're done adjusting.We're going to start with our wheel off. Since we're upgrading, by adding brakes to our system instead of just replacing an old assembly, we'll need to replace this hub with our new drum brake hub. You'll need to take the cap off here, at the end. You'll just hammer this off. Below here, you're going to have your nut. To remove the nut, you're going to need to take the cotter pin, it's found beneath. We're going to have to straighten it back out, so we'll just grab it here, with our needle-nosed pliers. If you are planning on re-using that cap we knocked off, I do recommend using a rubber mallet for that, so you don't damage it. Once you've got the cotter pin straight, you can just pull the cotter pin out. We're going to set it aside. We've got a napkin laid down for everything, so that way, we don't make a mess.Now, we'll remove the nut, located here in the center, using a pair of channel locks. I'm just going to unthread that, all the way. And we're going to set it aside.Our whole hub assembly can now be pulled off. You want to note, though, that there's going to be a washer and a bearing that's just going to fall out, so we're going to use our needle-nose pliers to catch those. We'll set those aside, and now we can set our hub aside. Now, since we're adding drum brakes, we won't be re-installing that hub, nor any of the components except for the nut and the cotter pin and the washer. We won't be re-using the bearings.Now you're going to want to remove all that grease that's on the

mobile home braking wheel stud replacement!

Do you have a braking mobile home axle?!? I bet you have at least one bad wheel stud that you would like to replace! Well I will show you how to replace them!

etrailer | Dexter Trailer Axle Beam w/ Electric Brakes - 3,500 lbs Installation

Click for more info and reviews of this Dexter Axle Trailer Axles: https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Axles/Dexter-Axle/35545e-st-89.html Check out some similar Trailer Axles options: https://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Trailer_Axles-gw-3500_lbs.aspx https://www.etrailer.com Don’t forget to subscribe! https://www.youtube.com/user/etrailertv Full transcript: https://www.etrailer.com/tv-install-dexter-trailer-axle-electric-brakes-35545e-st-89.aspx Today on our tandem axle trailer we're going to be installing the new Dexter trailer axle with electric brakes, 5 on 4-1/2" bolt pattern for your wheel, 89" long and a 3,500 pound capacity, part number 35545E-ST-89. We'll go ahead and start disassembly. We'll need to remove the dust cap first. Now I'm going to go ahead and clean off some of the grease so we can get to the keeper pin for the castle nut. Castle nut is what holds the outer hub assembly together on the axle. For this style castle nut the keeper is a metal tab that's bent over from the washer that is actually secured underneath it. We'll flatten out the tab of the keeper and then we can remove the nut. Here's our washer that goes between the keeper and the outer bearing. Here's the keeper and the metal tab that we had to straighten in order to get our castle nut off, and then our outer bearing. Once the outer bearing's out of the way we can go ahead and remove the hub and drum assembly. Next we'll need to remove the backing plate and brake assembly. The backing plate is secured by four studs that go through the backing plate through the mounting flange on the axle and secured with a nut. We're also going to go ahead and disconnect the electric. To do that I'm going to cut it off here at the connection point. Next when just removing the axle we'll then go ahead and cut the u-bolt. To cut the u-bolt you can use a reciprocating saw, cutoff wheel, or even a torch. Now that we've got one side loose we'll move over to the other side and repeat the same process. Now once we have both hub and drum assemblies removed we can go ahead and take the axle off and remove it from the trailer. We're now ready to put our axle in place. Here is the manufacturer's tag, and the tag will go to the rear of the trailer. Then line up the spring seat on the axle with the nib that sticks out the top of the leaf spring pack. Once you have them lined up we'll use the new u-bolt kit to secure it. Our plate will go on the bottom, u-bolt coming down over top of the axle. We'll install our fasteners finger tight at first, then we'll snug them down and torque to specifications as indicated in the instructions. Now our front axle is our braking axle for this application so whether you're installing a new brake drum assembly or an old or reused brake drum assembly, it will go ahead and install the same way. We'll line the studs on the backing plate up with the axle, then install a split lock washer and nut to secure it. Now when purchasing a new axle and hub drum assembly you'll get the new nut and split lock washer to attach the backing plate to the axle, but when reusing an old assembly we'll go ahead and reuse the old split lock washer and nut. Now it will make a difference for driver or passenger side. As you can see here, it's labeled for right passenger side. Another way to double check it is to look at shoe length. The larger shoe, longer from the lining to lining vs. the front, the larger shoe will be towards the rear of the trailer and does the majority of the braking. Now we know we got the passenger side on correctly we'll go ahead and install our hub drum assembly. We've already got our bearings packed and ready to go. We'll install the washer that is supplied with the new axle, then the axle nut. Now there are variations on tightening down the tapered bearing axle nut, which is what we have hear for this application. My preference is to tighten it down, make sure we have our bearings installed and seated all the way. Once we know we're tightened down we'll then back it off to just snug, setting the proper preload for our bearings. Then we'll take the axle nut keeper which is supplied with the axle; it has a flat tab that points to the inside, while the rest go around the outside to lock around the nut. That flat tab will line up with the flat spot on the axle. There, now once we have the lock in place we can go ahead and reinstall our dust cap. We'll be using the Redline dust cap driver which will help to drive the dust cap in straight. Now our final step for reinstalling our hub drum brake assembly is reconnecting the electrical leads. Using our Deka heat shrink butt connectors, we'll go ahead and attach the backing plate to the wiring that runs through the axle tube of our trailer. Now the way the brake system is designed is doesn't matter which side is power or ground as long as they're both connected. Now our heat shrink butt connectors will need to be heated up so that they'll seal around the wire. That

Removing and Replacing a wheel with Disc Brakes and Thru-axles

As always, you can shop Performance Bicycle at http://www.performancebike.com?utm_source=YouTube&utm_medium=Social&utm_campaign=DescriptionLink Follow Performance Bicycle on Twitter at http://www.twitter.com/performancebike?utm_source=YouTube&utm_medium=Social&utm_campaign=DescriptionLink Like Us on Facebook at http://www.facebook.com/performancebike?utm_source=YouTube&utm_medium=Social&utm_campaign=DescriptionLink Read Our Blog at http://blog.performancebike.com?utm_source=YouTube&utm_medium=Social&utm_campaign=DescriptionLink

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